The term “Prima”, signifying first, was in common use before Rolex’s establishment and initially used by the company in 1923. Similarly, “Extra Prima” , denoting high quality, was also in use before Rolex’s founding. The term “Ultra Prima” appears to have been introduced and registered by Hans Wilsdorf in 1930. Curiously, there are instances of Rolex watches with cases that can be reliably dated to before 1930 featuring movements marked as Ultra Prima. While some suggest the term might have been in use before Wilsdorf’s registration, this seems unlikely given his meticulous approach to registering names promptly.

With Wildorf’s proactive registration practices, it is plausible that Extra Prima was first used in December 1930. This raises the questions about Rolex watches with cases predating 1930 but equipped with Ultra Prima movements. Some suggest an explanation for this was that older cases were possibly married with newer movements which could have been driven by the desire to upgrade standard watches to Ultra Prima status.

‘Prima’ to ‘Ultra Prima’ in Rolex

In the 1920s, Aegler initiated the practice of marking superior movements supplied to Rolex with the term “Prima,” a trend likely commencing in 1923, as suggested by Dowling & Hess. This labelling evolved to include higher grades such as “Extra Prima” and “Ultra Prima.”

In August 1923, Hans Wilsdorf first utilised the term “Prima,” officially registering it as “Marconi Prima.” The choice of “Marconi Prima” for registration might have served as a strategic move to safeguard against potential usage by other watch manufacturers. There is a curious absence of registration for “Rolex Prima,” although it likely could have been registered. Simultaneously, Wilsdorf secured registrations for additional terms such as “Marconi Special,” “Marconi Standard,” and “Utica,” the latter possibly standing for “you ticker”.

While the phrase “Extra Prima” couldn’t be registered due to its common usage, “Ultra Prima” was a distinctive term first registered on December 9, 1930. From 1923 onward, higher quality Rebberg movements in Rolex watches were designated as “Prima,” progressing to “Extra Prima,” and culminating in “Ultra Prima” from 1930.

The Criteria Behind Rolex Movement Grades

Differentiating these grades didn’t seem tied to jeweling; rather, they were likely based on finishing, timing tests, and the engraving of specific components. The engraving transitioned from the ratchet wheel to the main train bridge, reflecting the deepening association between Rolex and Aegler in the 1920s. “Prima” denoted 15-jewel movements timed in six positions, while “Extra Prima” and “Ultra Prima” were applied to 18-jewel movements. Some Ultra Prima movements were marked as “Chronometer,” signifying superior accuracy. Despite the 1930 registration date for “Ultra Prima,” Rolex watches with pre-1930 cases bearing “Ultra Prima” movements exist. This discrepancy suggests the possibility of movements being upgraded over time, especially as Ultra Prima was likely associated with top-tier quality.

From Dial Changes to Upgrading Prestige

The upgrading phenomenon extended beyond movement replacements with instances of dials being altered, such as adding “Oyster Extra Prima” to non-Rolex watches, have been observed.

Watches with “Prima” or “Extra Prima” movements in cases with hallmarks predating 1920 may indicate marriages or attempts to enhance perceived value.

While Prima, Extra, and Ultra Prima movements were prestigious, many lost their original cases to bullion melting. Caution is advised for potential buyers, as unscrupulous individuals may substitute lower-grade movements with higher-grade ones, attempting to pass off the altered watch as an original.